AJ’s Cheesesteaks Brings A Philly Legend to Cincinnati

Every so often you come across a sandwich that defies everything. A sandwich that defies expectations and makes you rethink dining out. That challenges you to consider your place in the universe. And when such a sandwich appears in the most unexpected of places, it’s even more special. AJ’s Cheesesteaks outside Madisonville in Cincinnati, Ohio, is serving such a sandwich.

Now, I recognize the initial reaction is “A good cheesesteak? In Cincinnati? Right.” And I understand that gut reaction. Usually, results are mixed when a regional delicacy is attempted to be replicated outside a 50 or so-mile radius of its creation. For example, Cincinnati has Penn Station. A regional chain serving up cheesesteaks. Perfectly serviceable sandwiches sure, but no one claims that the replicate the authentic Philly experience. But it’s what we had. I cannot imagine eating at Penn Station ever again.

AJ’s started out as a food truck slinging subs and fries from a Norwood parking lot. The good word of Ty’s (the owner, AJ, is his son and the restaurant's namesake) sandwiches spread and eventually moved to a brick-and-mortar at the corner of Whetsel Ave. in Madisonville. You’ll know you’re near as the smells of grilled steak waft through the neighborhood, beckoning all who love expertly seasoned and grilled thinly sliced steak to enter their doors.

As we neared the new shop, guided solely by scent, we encountered a couple meandering down the street toward us. “Headed to AJ’s?” They queried. We sure are, we replied absently, the smell of grilled steak intensifying the closer we got to the restaurant. “It’s so good! You’re going to love it!” They shouted enthusiastically, obviously intoxicated by the cheese and steak filling their bellies. My excitement grew proportionally to match their expressed elation.

AJ’s could not be more unassuming. It’s a small space with limited seating. Filled with the intoxicating aromas of steak, seasoning, fresh bread, and lingering smoke. A simple board gives you your choices. Several different cheesesteaks in 7 or 9-inch variants with a variety of tasty accouterments, including cheese, onions, banana peppers, bacon, mushrooms, and jalapeños. There’s also fries and a fridge full of soda. Subs can be customized to order with any of the aforementioned accouterments.

I settled on a steak with cheese, onions, and jalapeños with a side of fries. The sandwich was huge, stuffed full of deliciousness, and the heavily seasoned fries nestled alongside the sandwich.

I’ve been to Philly only once. The taste of the subs I had there decades ago is still fresh in the recesses of my mind and taste buds. AJ’s honors Philly’s culinary legend and then some. Expertly seasoned steak and grilled topping are stuffed into an imported Amoroso roll and served hot and fresh. Waffle fries are generously, and I mean generously, coated in the same delicious seasoning that covers the steak.

To say everything is outstanding is an understatement of sorts. The sandwich bursts with umami flavor. The steak, melted cheese, and toppings intermingled in a delicate dance of flavor. It’s both simple yet complex. The seasoned fries complemented and improved the flavors of the sandwich.

Look, someone from Philly may come here, take only a look at this sandwich, scoff, and walk away, dismissing it as a local one-off version of Penn Station on the right roll. But I have a feeling this not only honors Philly’s top culinary legend but gives Cincinnatians a chance to enjoy one of America’s great sandwiches whenever we like.

My recommendation is to run not walk to AJ’s Cheesesteaks and immerse yourself and certainly become a Cincinnati legend.